Stewed pompion, or pumpkin, as we call it, was a Pilgrim staple. John Josselyn reports in New-England Rarities Discovered (1672) that several kinds of pumpkin grew in New England. “They are dryer than our English Pompions, and better tasted,” he writes. Women diced them and stewed them in a pot on a gentle fire all day, he notes. Then they added butter, vinegar and a spice, such as ginger. “It provokes Urin extreamly and is very windy,” he warns.
Rather than peel and dice pumpkin or other winter squash and cook it atop the stove, I slice the vegetable in half, scoop out the seeds (which, in the case of pumpkin, can be saved for later roasting) and place flesh side down in a baking pan filled with about a half-inch of water. I cover the pan with foil and bake in a 375-degree oven for about an hour. This steams the squash nicely. Drain the water from the pan and allow the squash or pumpkin to cool enough to handle. Then scoop out the flesh and season as you like.
This year’s crop of squash is very sweet. I haven’t found the need to “doctor” it. When the squash is bitter, however, I add butter and brown sugar or maple syrup. If you like spice, add nutmeg or ginger.
Here is a recipe for stewed pompion developed by food historians at Plimoth Plantation museum. Any winter squash may be substituted.
Stewed Pompion
4 cups cooked pumpkin or winter squash, such as butternut
3 tablespoons butter
2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1-2 teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon salt
Cook pumpkin or squash in the manner of your choosing. Mix in remaining ingredients.
