Peachy keen: summer fruit crisp

When summer fruits like peaches and nectarines are perfectly ripened, the only way to eat them is out of hand, the way nature intended. But once in a while, you get a disappointing batch: mealy and tasteless. Throw them out? No! Cook them. I believe this is why cooked-fruit desserts were invented: to use and improve the taste of inferior fruit. This week, I bought between two and three pounds of beautiful-looking but utterly tasteless peaches. Rather than toss them, I combined them with some just-picked wild blueberries to make this fruit crisp. In the past, I've substituted backyard raspberries for the blueberries with good results.

Blueberry-peach crisp

2 to 3 pounds peaches (about four to six)

½ cup blueberries

¾ cup granulated sugar

½ cup packed brown sugar

¾ cup flour plus a tablespoon

½ cup oatmeal

6 tablespoons chilled butter, diced

Immerse peaches in boiling water for a few seconds to loosen the skins. Peel and slice them into thick wedges. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with ¼ cup granulated sugar and one tablespoon flour (more, if really juicy). Add blueberries and mix gently. Let stand while you make the crumble topping.

Combine remaining flour, sugars and oatmeal in a bowl. Add diced butter. Using hands, work this into a crumble.

Pour thickened fruit mixture into an 8-inch-square buttered baking dish. Top with crumble. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 40 minutes, or until browned and bubbly. Best served warm with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. Serves four.